Rachel arrived here on December 19. She was a little jet lagged but since we weren't out of school until the 21st, she had a few days to get over it until our big adventure.
We were told that you could do the drive to Amman, Jordan all in one day. We got several different versions as to the amount of time. Some said 13 hours, others said 17 hours. We decided to give it a try.
We packed up our car with the basic necessities and were on our way at 4:30 in the morning. We had maps to help us along the way since our GPS chip for the Middle East was shipped to Gavin's sister's house in Utah and she didn't get it in time to send with Rachel. The road to Amman from Khobar is pretty straight going along the Iraq border so we weren't too worried about getting lost.
The terrain was very flat with lots and LOTS of sand and desert. Still we were able to see and do some interesting things along the way.
The terrain was very dry and occasionally a small butte would appear. There were areas with sand dunes but Saudi isn't just that. Most of the area we traveled through was similar to driving through Las Vegas or Phoenix. Dry, rocky and very little vegetation.
We were a little embarrassed that we didn't read the sign correctly. Oh well, I don't think we will ever get the 6 and 2 mixed up again in Arabic.
The kids watched movies, read, listened to Ipods and slept most of the time. Vika thought she owned the seat. She has such a loving brother to let her sprawl out all over him.
When we woke up the next morning we had a nice view of the city and were ready to go explore.
Back to our first day in Jordan.
As we were walking to the entrance, there was an amazing view from an old wall of the abandoned building where each of the kids went out on.
The Romans built a temple for Hercules in the citadel. Of course all kids have seen the Disney movie Hercules which gave this some sort of meaning.
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After spending about an hour at the Citadel we headed off to Jerash which is about an hour north of Amman. Jerash is a site of one of the best preserved Roman cities in the world. We were given directions on how to drive to the city but had a hard time finding the entrance. We took a wrong turn through the city that took us on some VERY narrow streets up and down hills. We were a little worried that were would get stuck because the streets weren't necessarily made for big four wheel drive vehicles like our Honda MRV (Passport). Fortunately we made it out of that area and asked some Jordanian police officers sitting in their car. They spoke very little English but were able to say "back, lefty, righty. Welcome to Jordan". That became our joke the rest of the trip. Whenever we didn't know where to go we'd say "back, lefty, right. Welcome to Jordan".
We finally found the entrance and spent the next three hours exploring one of the most spectacular places in the world.
Everything here is huge. The Romans knew how to do things on a grand scale.
This is the road leaving the arena into the oval plaza at the entrance of the city.
In one of the shops was this stone which was once a chopping block for a butcher shop. It's hard to see in the picture but you can actually see the knife marks made from chopping meat.
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We left our car in Amman at the hostel and arranged for a driver to drive us to the border where we had no problems crossing. The border opened at 7:30 a.m. so we got there at 7:00 so that we could be the first ones and could possibly get across in time to go to church at the BYU Jerusalem center at 10:00. Unfortunately our plan didn't quite work that way. We had arranged for a driver to pick us up on the Israeli side at 8:30 but we didn't get over the border until after 10:00. When you cross the border they put everyone on a bus to drive them the short distance between the Jordanian and Israeli side. Even though we were one of the first ones across from Jordan, we had to wait until the bus was filled before they drove us over, which took nearly an hour. Then we had to wait in lines on the Israeli side.
Our driver took us to the BYU Jerusalem Center anyway. Since it was Christmas Eve, they were only having Sacrament meeting so we arrived at the end of the meeting. The center is set up on Mt. Olive overlooking Old Jerusalem. We took a few pictures and met a girl that attended the last fall session there with Nick and knew him. What an amazing experience to be able to study the scriptures living right in the middle of it all. Nick was very fortunate to be able to do that. It has inspired Rachel to apply to attend at BYU Jerusalem sometime next year.
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After visiting the center our driver took us up to a spot on Mt. Olive where we could see a beautiful view of the city and wall.
We are on Mt. Olive with Old Jerusalem behind us.
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The driver then took us to our hostel in Jerusalem where we checked in and then headed off on foot to explore the city for the day.
We first walked through the Old City towards the Garden tomb. We came out of the Damascus gate then headed a few blocks to the place where the crucifixion took place and burial tomb of Jesus.
This is Skull Hill where they believe the crucifixion occurred.
While at the Garden tomb we followed a tour group from Nigeria around. They were some very cool people. They all wanted to take Vika and Nicole with them down into the tomb and a man started talking to Jonny. His name was Praise and kept telling Jonny that he needs to visit Nigeria. He said "You come visit my beautiful country and stay with me. I show you my beautiful country of Nigeria" They exchanged email addresses.
It was very humbling to be in these places knowing the history and story, but the one thing that seemed to be lacking was the spirit. We were reminded over and over throughout our trip that these were just places. Yes, miraculous events occurred here but it still is only a place. The spirit comes from our testimony, not necessarily from being in the place. It still was very cool to be here and to be able to put a place with things we have studied and learned our entire lives.
Here is the tomb and actual place where they believed the Savior was laid to rest. As we walked into the tomb, the group from Nigeria all started singing hymns. It was very touching.
After visiting the Garden Tomb, we walked back through Old Jerusalem. The old streets are filled with merchants selling just about anything you could imagine. Some streets had souvenir shops, while other sold your normal everyday items, other streets had restaurants. Earlier in the day it was packed and we could barely walk through the streets but later in the evening it slowed down a bit.
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As we were walking through the streets filled with lots of vendors, Rachel looked up and saw a BYU pendant hanging from one of the shops. She stopped and commented about the BYU pendant. The shop owner happen to hear Rachel and asked if we were mormon and invited us in. He said he had many things for mormons in his shop. We were surprised that he knew about mormons. He pulled out some BYU Jerusalem sweatshirts and t shirts that he said he has made for the students that come from the center. He said they all know about his shop. He then showed us a papyrus copy of the drawings in the Pearl of Great Price pertaining to Abraham. They were so cool. We spent quite a bit of time talking to him and bought some widows mite for Gavin and Jonny. Then he pulled out this BYU banner with Steve Young's autograph on it. He said that Steve Young has visited his shop many times. It was so cool. He had scripture covers made from leather that say Jerusalem on them which we bought for Rachel, along with a t shirt that has BYU Jerusalem written in Hebrew with a picture of the Tree of Life from the Book of Mormon and the papyrus picture.
After visiting the Garden Tomb we walked along the Via Delorosa through Jerusalem to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre which was built in the early 600 AD. Some believe that the church was built on the site where the tomb of Christ is.
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We happened to be inside the church when they began the Christmas Eve mass. It was very crowded so we didn't stay long.
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The next morning, Christmas Day, we had arranged to have a tour guide drive us around to other sites near Jerusalem. It was very rainy and cold which we really weren't prepared for but this was our only chance to see some of the sites.
We went to the Garden of Gethsemene. This is probably the most important site for us because of the Atonement of Christ. It was here that the most miraculous event occurred that saved all man. We were very humbled to be here.
Some of these olive trees are thousands of years old and were actually here at the time Christ atoned for our sins.
Near the Garden is another church.
Next we visited the room of the Last Supper. Above is the doorway into the room.
The room is very small and not what we had expected. It was just a simple room. Most of the pictures that portray this event show a fancy table that they sat around. After living here in the Middle East and seeing the size of the room, I imagine that it was similar to the traditions of this area with just pillows and blankets surrounding the room and food being served on the floor in the center of the room.
An interesting addition to the room of Last Supper was this column that was built later. On the column are three ravens. The two on the side are eating the heart out of the one in the center. This is supposed to represent the sacrifice of the Savior. One giving his life to save others.
We then traveled to the tomb of Lazarus. It was interesting that this tomb is now owned by a Muslim family who maintain it purely for monetary reasons, yet it seemed to be the most authentic.
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We also visited the tomb of King David. This is owned by the Jews, hence the head coverings on Gavin and Jonny. At first this didn't mean much to the kids until we explained that this is the same David that slew Goliath. Then is clicked who King David was.
We traveled out to the area where they believe that John the Baptist was born. It was a little village outside of Jerusalem in the hills. When I heard or read the story of Mary visiting her cousin, the mother of John the Baptist, I imagined her traveling for days out to the middle of nowhere when actually it was only about a 20 minute drive from Jerusalem. I'm sure it was a long distance to travel and through the hills would have been difficult compared to now.
Our driver took us through a Palestinian area. Here is the wall that has been built to separate the Palestinians from the Israeli areas.
Since it was a rainy cold day, we shortened our day out and headed back to the hostel. They were having a Christmas party that night for the people staying at the hostel. We met this young man, Patrick, who has been living in Israel and working as a shepherd for the past 6 months. He had been attending West Point and decided to take a religious leave for a year to do service. He said that the mormons were the ones who started this at West Point for those cadets who wanted to serve a mission. Now they offer this option to any students who want to take time off as a service leave. He found this opportunity to be a shepherd in Israel for a year. He probably is the only West Point shepherd ever.
After dinner, the party started. They had a dj and we danced all night long...well at least until 11:30.
Nicole doing the Statue of Liberty pose.
Santa even came to visit. Imagine that....Santa Clause in Jerusalem.
Vika even had the chance to sing Silent Night and Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer for the party. She had help from Nicole and another lady at the hostel. We met the most interesting people here and had a very enjoyable night celebrating both Hanakuh and Christmas.
Santa would disappear for a little while but would alway come back a little more jolly each time. He loved dancing with Rachel and the kids.
Patrick danced with Rachel all night long. Gavin and I even got out on the dance floor to show off our moves. The kids have always wanted to see their dad's dance moves which he finally let it loose and danced away. It really was a very fun and memorable Christmas. Probably one of the most unique one we have had but one we will remember. We all commented that it was the best Christmas ever. We were able to see some very religious sacred sites and met some of the most amazing people. We didn't have a Christmas tree, presents or any of the traditions we usually have during this time, yet it was one of the best times we have had because we were together as a family and celebrating with some new and interesting people.
The next morning we woke up early for our last day in Israel. Jonny is enjoying his breakfast of a Nutella sandwich.
After breakfast we were picked up by a driver to take us to Bethlehem. We originally wanted to come here on Christmas Eve but were advised that it would be very crowded so we decided to go on our way back to the Jordanian border.
This is the entrance to the church built over the cave where Jesus was born. There have been many different entrances built over the hundreds of years that this church has been here which you can see with the different stone and shapes on the wall.
Above the cave where Jesus was born is now a Greek Orthodox church that was built during the crusader time.
Above the actual entrance to the cave is a Roman Catholic church. This is part of the cave under the Roman Catholic church.
The star on the floor in the picture is the actual site where they believe the Savior was born. This part of the cave is under the Greek Orthodox Church. Since the entrance is owned by the Roman Catholic Church, the Orthodox church had to dig a separate entrance to this spot.
The cave was very small and filled with many different relics. It was a little distracting to have all these things around in such a sacred spot. It took a lot of the spirit out of it and just became another room.
It was interesting having the story told to us by a Palestinian. His family has lived in Bethlehem for hundreds of years and he explained how it was very common for women to give birth caves or stables. The Western perception of a stable is a wooden barn as we see depicted in many pictures and nativity scenes but the stables were actual caves under the homes. The area has many caves and families would live in the caves with their animals. Eventually they would build houses above the caves and the animals would live below the houses during the colder months of the year. He said that when women would go into labor, they would go down into the caves to give birth in order to find privacy because the homes were very small with lots of family living in them. Mary and Joseph probably weren't the only ones staying in the cave that night and it would have been very normal for Mary to go back into the cave where the animals were to give birth. Our guide said that his grandfather was born in a cave so it is very common for this to occur.
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Old Bethlehem is pictured behind us. This is in the plaza near the birth site of Jesus. They had a huge Christmas Tree in the plaza that will remain up through January because their are three different Christmas celebrations. The western Christmas day is December 25, but the Orthodox Christmas is later in January and then is followed by the Armenian Christmas. Our guide told us that many don't believe that the actual birth date of Christ was in December because it was too cold for Shepherds to be out in the fields with their flocks and the weather would have made it difficult for people to travel to Bethlehem. They believe it was sometime in the Spring. I didn't realize that other religions believed that same thing.
Here is the field below Bethlehem called Shepherds Field where the shepherds were visited the night of the birth of the Savior.
The Shepherds field is behind us with Bethlehem beyond that on the hill.
After visiting Bethlehem, we headed back to the Jordanian border near the Dead Sea. We are below sea level here which explains Gavin holding his breath because we are under the sea.
Our time in Israel came to an end. It was a very educational and spiritual experience. We only had a few days here but plan to hopefully return someday.
We returned to our hostel in Amman and woke up the next morning and headed south. We first stopped at the Dead Sea and then went to Karak to visit a crusader castle. The pictures for the Dead Sea and Karak will be posted later. It took several days for me to upload the pictures for this post and I was really trying to be careful to keep everything in order but didn't realize until now that I totally left out the pictures from the Dead Sea and Karak. I've spent too much time to start this post over to get the pictures in order so they will be posted later.
We swam in the Dead Sea and then spent a few hours in Karak. We arrived in Petra about 7:00 at night. The hostel we stayed in was very backpacker style. We were able to get a private room with six beds in it but the room was just a partitioned section of the downstairs area where the kitchen and breakfast area were. It was not very sound proof so we heard every noise until around 2:00 in the morning and then the noise started again at 6:30 in the morning when breakfast started. It's true you get what you pay for, but at least we had a bed to sleep in.
The first part of the trail into Petra had several tombs along the roadside.
We were so excited to be here.
The road enters a canyon area where the street weaved through the canyon. They had built these troughs to collect water and transport it into the middle of the city.
The canyon looked very similar to something that we would see in Utah but better.
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There were several artistic carvings along the road.
This is another picture showing the water trough built through the city.
This was once a sculpture of a man leading four camels.
You still can see part of the camel. The hooves are still visible and the belly of the camel.
The water troughs had terra cotta pipes that the water flowed through. Here you can still see a part of the terra cotta pipe.
Nicole and Vika exploring a structure in the canyon wall along the road.
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After walking for about 30 minutes through the canyon it opens up into a plaza area where the Treasury is. This is the structure where Indiana Jones went into to find the Holy Grail. Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade was the first movie that Gavin and I saw when we were dating and Gavin loves Indiana Jones so this was a huge highlight of our trip. I didn't even know there was an actual place like this until a few years ago. Then last year after we had gotten our job here in Saudi, we were traveling on Jordanian Air home to China from the job fair in Bangkok and I was looking through the airlines magazine on the plane. I read an article about Petra and realized that we could actually go there and here we are....so cool!
It is absolutely amazing how these places were sculpted out of the mountain without the use of machines. They were all chipped away by hand by hundreds of people.
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There were several Bedouin families that still live here in Petra. They get money from selling souvenirs and giving rides on their camels or donkeys through Petra. It was so cool...we were expecting Indiana Jones to come riding up on his horse any minute.
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More tombs.
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tombs...
and tombs.
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There was quite a bit of Roman influence on the architecture. They even had a amphitheater in the city.
This was believed to be the city hall and court house. The rooms under the court house were believed to be jail cells.
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This road once was lined with columns such as the one in Jerash.
The colonnade was lined with street markets, churches and a temple up on the hill.
The street in this area was once paved with large stones as seen here.
We hiked several hours and miles up the mountain to reach the Monastery. Several times I was ready to hire one of the boys with the donkeys to take me to the top because it was quite the hike. We were told that it would be well worth it and we would regret not going so we persevered and finally reached the top.
At the top we found this huge amazing Monastery. Again we were in awe of the craftsman ship and details.
Although the Monastery and other buildings looked so massive on the outside, they usually only consisted of one or two rooms inside. They couldn't carve out much inside for fear of it collapsing. The picture above is inside the Monastery that only had one large room.
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We hiked up to the Monastery and Gavin wanted to continue up to another section of the mountain. We were all too tired so he went up alone and had this amazing view.
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It was a long day of hiking but we were so glad we did it all. We went back to the hostel and crashed. The next morning we were on our way back home to Saudi.
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We left about 6:00 in the morning for the first leg of our drive home. We are going home a different way which is estimated to take around 21 hours. We thought the first day would only take about 11 hours but it actually took about 16 hours. We had booked a hotel in Buraydah which is about 4 hours north of Riyadh. It was a little scary at times on the road because it was pitch black and seemed like we were the only people on the road at times. We weren't sure what we would find in between and tried to keep our gas tank full. The road was under construction several times where we had to take detours and weren't quite sure how to get back onto the highway at times. It was rather unnerving but fortunately we were able to figure it all out. We arrived in Buraydah not knowing where our hotel was and finally had to hire a taxi to drive us there. We stopped at a mall and found a taxi but he didn't speak much English. We called the hotel and had them explain to him where they were so that we could follow him. The driver was the nicest person and when we got to the hotel he didn't want us to pay him. So many times people here have helped us without any expectations of receiving something in return. We convinced him to accept our money and were able to finally get to bed around midnight.
The next morning we took our time getting up. We weren't in much hurry because this was the first night we had comfortable beds in a really nice hotel in over a week.
We left Buraydah and headed home.
We arrived home about 5:00 in the afternoon. We celebrated our Christmas as soon as we got home. Vika was very concerned that Santa wouldn't bring her presents so the whole time on our trip we had to reconfirm to her that Santa left them back in Saudi at our house. So it was a relief to her to find presents under the tree when we got home.
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Not our traditional Christmas but it was one we will remember!!!!!
A few days after getting back we went on a dune trip with several other families in the compound. We headed out in our four wheel drive vehicles for a day on the dunes.
The kids had fun sliding, boarding, and sledding down the sand.
Vika was a little hesitant at first but after a few times with Jonny she had no reserves at all.
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Since we were out in the desert we were FREE!!! No abayas and Rachel, Jonny and Nicole even had a chance to drive the car.
2 comments:
Awesome trip w/ awesome photos. We will be following your foot steps this coming Dec. Thanks for your blog! Tom & Eileen
I have always wanted to visit Jerusalem and Petra. I cried during your whole post. Weird I know but it is just so amazing that you got to be there. Wow! The most wonderful Christmas ever. We will go there some day.
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